Model Chart
See when production of a particular model started and ended, lots of information to digest and impress all of your friends.

Pistons and Rings

Another huge and comprehensive list; this time all the sizes and details of every piston, ring and gudgeon pin along with OE, Hepolite and Wellworthy numbers that could be found.
Valve Dimensions
A table listing the main dimensions of all Ariel and BSA valves that we have data for.
Find the length and size of chains required for any Ariel (1937-65) or Unit BSA 1949-72. All available at competitive prices from Draganfly.
Transfer Listings
This is a detailed listing of transfers used from 1914 onwards and is accurate as Roger can make it. The listing is broken down into application by modeland details of each transfer.

Wet Sumping & Oil Pumps

When the oil in the oil tank drains into the sump and fills the crankcase it will cause the machine to smoke a lot and to pump oil out of the breathers until it is pumped back to the oil tank, this is known as wet sumping. All gear type oil pumps will do this to a greater or lesser extent, even when new.
Engine and Frame Numbers
Here you will be able to find the information with regards to BSA’s VIN list. You will be able to find whether the frame on your bike is the correct one for the engine. Up until 1968 it was rare for the engine and frame number to be identical and where the frame is shared by several models the codes start with the smallest model e.g. all A series models have A7 or A50 prefixes with the exception of the Rocket Gold Star and Super Flash. WHERE TO FIND YOUR NUMBER –

PRE WAR On the front top frame member either by the front seat stay, by the steering head, or on the seat stem tube.

1950’s On the front down tube below or in front of the petrol tank or on the headstock. The exception is the early Bantams where the frame number is between the front engine mounting plate. These are usually faint and small.

1960-65 By the steering head reinforcing plate or front down tube. Some Bantams on the engine mounting plate, these sometimes break and rewelding obliterates the stamping.

1965-1968 Usually on the front engine mounting lug.

1968 ONWARDS Front engine mounting lug but the engine and frame numbers are the same.

1971 OIL IN FRAME MODELS Steering head stem. The oil in frame B-series are stamped on the propstand bracket.


Engine numbers are easier to find and usually by the crankcase mouth on the primary side. Exceptions are the Bantams which could be stamped on the front mounting point or just behind the crankcase mouth.

This is just a guide and will fit most situations but frames were legitimately restamped by dealers if the original was damaged and a replacement fitted. These could be stamped anywhere and often were not stamped at all!

How to recognize the A7 and Sporting variants
This is a comprehensive list of engine and frame numbers of the A7. It provides a chronological reference guide of the bike.
Long Stroke A7 Twins 1948-50
This is a comprehensive description of the A7 long stroke engine, details on engine and also a history of the motorcycle. The article describes the pros and cons as well.
Need a wiring loom, well they are all here and available from us!
Big-end Assembly
A Table showing which big end assemblies to use with which con-rod, some models are very complicated.
Exciting Literature
A great deal has been written about BSAs over the years; most of those listed here originally came from the factory and most of the 150 plus items listed are available from us.
Plugs, Points, Batteries etc
All of the common service items in one place, once again all available from you friendly Draganfly shop.
Carburettor Settings for Ariel & Bsa Models
This is a fine list of the Non-unit carburettor settings, very handy to check your carb out and get those running problems sorted!
Amal type 6 tuning
Standard Amal type 6 (old leaky, remote float) carburettor tuning document but re-written and re-drawn in a clear manner. I stole this from somewhere but cannot remember where, sorry. I don’t remember doing it but I might have done.
M20 fork repair
The M20 girder fork is rather difficult to repair, this method was worked out and subsequently written up by a customer of ours who thought that we might find it useful and may be of help to others.
Sidecar article
If you are fitting a sidecar this excellent article will tell you not only how much lean out to use but how to cure poor handling outfits.
Electronic ignition systems – a guide
This article discusses the pro and cons of fitting electronic ignition in both a practical and a philosophical sense. It also lists the types of kits available and what is in each kit. The all important part numbers are included should you be tempted to buy one!
Petrol taps
This is a great document with all of our taps including the sizes, use it to work out which style and size you require.
Types of Oil
On the subject of oil, we recommend that engines with roller bearing big ends are run on monograde oils i.e. single viscosity sae 40 in winter and sae 50 in summer. This is because this type of oil can withstand the high loads experienced in a roller bearing big end where all the force is through just one or two rollers. Monograde oils should not be confused with ‘straight’ oils, which means oil without additives. The principal additive in modern oils is a detergent that is used to keep deposits in suspension until they reach the oil filter. They will also loosen existing deposits and as there is no effective filter this can be disastrous in an engine that is full of ‘gunge’ accumulated over the years. Engines with shell bearing big ends can use either a monograde or a modern multi-grade oil. The multi-grade oil will lubricate the shells more quickly when the engine is first started which is when most of the wear takes place and so is more suitable for short journeys; it is also cheaper and more easily obtainable. Monograde oil will leak less; the engine will run cooler and quieter, is available as a straight oil and is more original! Browse and buy oil, grease and other fluids here
Electronic Regulators
It is nowadays very difficult to find an original mechanical regulator box in good condition and the only replacements are the type for the 40 Watt dynamo and are made in India. The answer is to replace it with a modern electronic one, that, providing the instructions are followed will provide many years of trouble free use, indeed members of staff have covered more than 50,000 miles without trouble. These electronic marvels are small enough to fit inside the old regulator and are therefore undetectable in use. The units come complete with comprehensive instructions but as the instructions point out a new regulator will not fix dodgy wiring or a duff dynamo! If converting to 12 volts the battery and bulbs will need to be replaced but the horn should be OK as long as it is not operated for extended periods! Due to the higher voltages involved the dynamo will not cut in as early as it will with 12 volts, typically it will not be charging at 30 m.p.h. in top gear, especially if the gearing has been raised and this is a real problem on the SQ4 especially so because the ignition system relies upon the battery. Unless the bike is to be used a lot after dark or high mileages are expected a 12 volt conversion is probably not worth the trouble, a 6 volt system is perfectly adequate providing the connections are maintained in good condition. If a 12 volt conversion is tried and charging is a problem a 12 volt armature and field coil will lower the revs at which the dynamo will commence to charge and this does work well, although not available for the SQ4. Also when converting to 12 volts the largest battery that can be fitted should be used as the dynamo can be destroyed by using a small battery as I found out to my cost at 4 o’clock in the morning in the middle of France. These are the only regulators that we have found that will work with the large Square Four dynamo. ELE-29 +ve earth  –ELE-28 -ve earth Each unit can be used as a 6 or 12 volt unit.
Carburettor Sleeving
Poor starting and erratic tickover is usually caused by wear between the throttle valve and the body. Fitting a new slide in a worn body is like fitting a new chain to old sprockets, a waste of time. Wear is likely to be apparent as early as 5,000 miles, but can be rectified by boring the body oversize and fitting a sleeve to the slide. The materials used in this process will last a lot longer than the original. This is preferable to fitting a non-original later type of concentric carburetter. The new carburettors that are now available have improved materials but are not as good as a sleeved one. The price for re-sleeving on its’ own is to be found under part number RES169, for this all we need is the body and slide. Alternatively, send the complete carb to us and we will replace other worn, missing or damaged parts, check threads, re-plate the fittings, peen the body parts and re-assemble for an approximate price please click here. We cannot sleeve the Concentric range but we can supply new ones at very competitive prices.
White wall tyre fitting
Details on fitting said white wall tyre trims. Do read these instructions carefully before undertaking this task. Since these trims are not cheap it is worth doing this on a day where you are calm and have plenty of time. Do not rush it and you get the great finish you want. We offer these since we can not find a supplier for white wall tyres, “at Draganfly we would if we could”. Buy Whitewall trims here
Fitting transfers instruction sheet
So you have bought some transfers from us and you have lost the sheet. Or perhaps you would like to read all about it before you stick the Horse to your arm? Please do remember that although we try and list which transfers use which fitting method the suppliers keep changing the type. This is why we have put details of each type so you can look at the transfers and determine if it is in fact ‘waterslide’ or ‘rub on’ Good Luck.
Single spring clutch lifting in a tilted fashion
The ends of the clutch spring should be ground flat and be parallel to each other. Stand the spring on a flat surface and check the parallelism of the ends with a straight edge. If not parallel it won’t lift evenly. There is a REME modification to the spring nut that introduces some adjustment. Once modified, the initial set up is fiddly but it does work and will probably solve your problem.

Bantam Bulb List
We have compiled tables showing which bulbs each Bantam requires. For most bantam electrical parts we need to know if the bike is AC (alternating current) otherwise known as direct lighting (without a battery) or DC (direct current) known as battery lighting.