Our Roger set out to recreate (as much as he could) a ride completed in 1924. Marjorie Cottle, on a 3 ¾ hp Raleigh, and Hugh Gibson, on a 7 hp Raleigh combination, road around the coast in opposite directions 2nd-14th June 1924, around 3,404 miles, an average of 261 miles per day. Here is Roger’s travel log –
I was very interested in Simon’s article on the coast ride, especially about Marjorie and Hugh’s earlier exploit that I didn’t know about, not that I remember anyway. I was intrigued enough to plot a route using the map and list of towns visited in 1924 and realised that I could do a big chunk of the route on the way to the Cuddy rally. The next step was to realise that there was just about enough time to travel around the North of Scotland, north west England and Wales before arriving at the annual rally conveniently placed in Tewkesbury. It would involve riding 300 or so miles a day but I could give up at any time!
So here I am camping in a field in County Durham overlooking the North Sea, having been buffeted by a strong cross wind all day. 317 miles, the first 200 without even a glimpse of the sea, more round the edge of Britain than round the coast, mainly due to the low lying land requiring big banks to keep the sea in its place through Norfolk and Lincolnshire. I have stuck to the roads that existed in 1924 as much as I can but had to use the Humber bridge as the ferry closed some time ago. I have visited some new places like Hartlepool and some like Middlesborough that I didn’t want to visit again, no sign of a 1936 VB, unfortunately but I did re-visit the transporter Bridge.
Day 2 of my epic ride. I missed out St. Andrew’s to save a bit of time as I had misfire earlier in the day that became progressively worse so stopped for breakfast just south of Berwick after 80 miles and lost an hour fixing it. Oil in the mag and on the pick up. After fixing that it became obvious that the clutch was slipping rather more than I thought so had to stop and re- tighten the clutch spring nuts. She fairly flew after that. I think I forgot to mention that I missed Redcar yesterday due to a navigational error. Edinburgh was as horrendous to ride through, as it was when I lived there, but Newcastle wasn’t bad, probably because I got the chance to see the 7 or now 8 bridges in the flesh.
Rain that was promised finally arrived on the approach to Dundee, famous for marmalade, fruit cake, jute and most of all for the Beano. Arrived at the Cuddy at Aberfeldy to find a welcome beer and only 2 beds left! I was late for the fish supper order but I needn’t have worried as I received donations. Currently enjoying a bit of a folky music session with fiddle and acoustic guitar, Stan is joining in, or trying to.
No coast ride yesterday as I was at the excellent Cuddy rally. Rode the 70 odd miles to rejoin the route at Arbroath, a lovely town but I didn’t stop for any Smokies. The A923 road from Dunkeld to Blaigowrie was superb, it helped that it was dry and the sun was shining. Highlight of the day was parking outside the old premises of George Cheyne, purveyor of Ariels in these parts, including my very own Caroline. Continuing up the east coast I eventually turned west towards Inverness and found another superb road between Fraserborough and Elgin. Passed through Cullen of Skink fame but didn’t see any. The weather became tediously damp at Inverness and all campsites were fully booked. Just as I had resigned myself to a spot of wild camping I saw a nice looking sight at Tain and they had space, result. Plus the sun came out to watch me erect my tent.
It’s Monday so this must be Applecross, finally made it after 2 previous attempts and it was mostly dry and sunny. Yes Marjory didn’t include Applecross and I cut a couple of parts of her route out in order to fit it in. There were a fair number of camper vans but not as many as I had been warned about, because a lot of the route follows the NC 500 tourist route devised to promote tourism in the Highlands. A mixed blessing as there are complaints of mess, shortages of fuel and food, methinks a tad exaggerated. The scenery is absolutely amazing, although I have been here twice before at least a third of today’s roads were new to me. I should explain that today’s route was north from Tain to Thurso for fuel, supplies and a bit of spannering, then along the north coast, wind farms, nuclear power station and a space centre. Then south, east, south again before west to the Applecross campsite. The Polish owner was impressed that I had a rally sticker from a Polish rally.
Sorry for lack of report yesterday, it started so well with glorious sunshine for my first ride over Belach na Ba, the twist and steep alternative route from Applecross. The journey as far as Inveraray was also really good, back to familiar roads. At Connel Ferry (no ferry) I found where the rattle that had been annoying me for the last 30 miles was coming from when the dashboard started flapping about due to 2 of the 4 bolts going walkabout. Soon mended and ate my lunch watching the falls of Lorn that were in full spate. After Inveraray I took a different route to the usual one over The Rest and be Thankful that joined the The Rest etc at the top, very nice it was too. This is where the rain started and continued all way to the campsite on a hill road north of Largs in Ayrshire. It blew a hoolie (strong wind) all night, so much so that all my tent poles broke, scrap one tent.
It would be nice to report that Wednesday dawned sunny and bright – it didn’t – but at least the wind had subsided. Due to the inclement weather I followed the main road rather than going through the rather drab towns along the Ayrshire coast. I did follow my route of a small road inland, after Girvan down to Stranraer. I went down to Whithorn and then up to Gatehouse of Fleet, some wonderful names, how about Haugh of Urr on the old road from Castle Douglas to Dumfries, much better than the modern road. At Carlisle stopped for fuel and wondered about replacing my tent. Feeling rather wet and fed up, I decided to go directly to Ulverston, where there was a large outdoor emporium and so booked an hotel. The rain had stopped after Stranraer but recommenced with a vengeance when I arrived in the Lake District, slow twisty roads are usually great but here they are clogged with idiots going at a snails pace, even on a wet Wednesday at 5 o’clock. Hotel was poor, football and yellow beer but did have a bath at the end of the corridor, no plug though. Sorry no pics, nothing worth removing wet gear to photograph. Today England, tomorrow Wales.
After nursing a reluctant machine as far as Poulton le Fyde near Blackpool she refused to go any further. I had been experiencing an intermittent misfire almost since leaving home and had tried various things to find the problem, without success. I coaxed her as far as a supermarket that had buns and drink, better than the main road and eventually found the points to be only just closing and no doubt not closing sometimes, an easy fix, as these problems usually are, it’s finding them that is the difficult bit. Rang the wife to see how she was, answer not well, so I decided reluctantly to go straight home 250 in 6-3/4 hours using main roads and yet more rain and will unfortunately miss the annual at Tewkesbury, the first time in 47 years, what an old fart. The good news is Caroline never missed a beat and cruised happily at 55-60 mph all the way, what a star.
Total trip was 2177 miles, not all on the coast route, there was 144 miles included visiting the Cuddy rally and the 250 miles home and another 60 miles to take in Applecross. An average daily mileage of 272, a little more than Hugh and Marjorie managed over their 13 days but to be honest I had had enough especially on the more crowded roads and numerous towns once away from the Scottish Highlands.